Set with picture perfection near the base of the Elephant Mountains on the Kampong Bay River, the provincial capital of Kampot City is of quite a different character than the much more heavily touristed beach town of Sihanouk Ville. Quiet lanes, classic French colonial and Chinese architecture and very few tourists all serve to lend Kampot a quaint, welcoming, small town ambiance. Visitors come to Kampot for a taste of provincial Cambodia, the relaxed atmosphere, and to use Kampot as a base or a stepping stone to the Bokor Hill Station, the beaches and islands of Kep and the rest of southeastern Cambodia. For those interested in volunteer work, Kampot offers several volunteer opportunities with NGOs and other charitable organizations both short and long term doing things such as teaching English, assistance with children and disabled people, reconstruction projects, etc. (See ‘Things to Do and See’ for more information.) Come the end of the day in Kampot the place to be is at one of the friendly little riverside cafes or pubs to relax curbside over a cold drink or a glass of wine and watch the sun slowly set over the river and into the Elephant Mountains.GETTING TO KAMPOT
From/To Sihanoukville: 1½ - 2 hour, 110km. In Sihanouk Ville, taxis can be found opposite the market (Phsar Leu) and at the downtown bus and taxi station. In Kampot, taxis can be found at the taxi stand. 12,000-14,000R/person or $20 for a private taxi ($25 for good a/c). From Sihanouk Ville, travel north on Route #4 to Veal Renh (43km). Turn east on Route #3 to Kampot. Route #4 is paved. Route #3 to Kampot is mixed paved and in good condition.
From/To Phnom Penh: Route #3 between Phnom Penh and Kampot is paved and in comparatively good condition - a bit better condition than the alternative route, Route #2 to Route #3 via Takeo. Bus: There are now three bus companies offering several regular a/c buses between Phnom Penh and Kampot. In Kampot, the buses arrive/depart from the bus stand (see map). Tickets can be purchased there or through your hotel/guesthouse (~$3-$4). Most buses travel to/from Phnom Penh via Kep Phnom Penh Sorya Transport bus schedule:Phnom Penh to Kampot : 7:30AM, 1:15PMSHV to Kampot : 7:30AM, 12:30PMStations: Phnom Penh: On Charles de Gaulle, next to the Central Market. Kampot office: Bus Station.Taxis: Taxis can be found at Phsar Dumkor in Phnom Penh. 13-15,000R/person or $22-$30 for a private car, 3 hours.
To/From Vietnam: BIG NEWS: The long-awaited Prek Chak/Xaxia (‘Ha Tien’) crossing has finally opened to foreign travelers. This represents the removal of the last road block on the coastal travelers trail from Koh Chang Thailand, though the beach towns of Cambodia and on to southern Vietnam and Phu Quoc Island (Koh Tral). Overland travelers can now beach hop across Indochina without ever having to leave the coastal roads.The road from Kampot to the border crossing is, for the most part, in good condition, taking about 1h15m to traverse. Take Route 33 east from Kampot to the intersection of Route 31 at Kampong Trach town. Turn south on Route 31 in Kampong Trach. All but the last few kilometers to the border are sealed. There are also a couple of short cuts off of Route 33 before Kampong Trach town. They are slightly shorter but the road is hardpack dirt, rough in parts and probably prone to flooding in the rainy season. The Ha Tien destination is so new that the tour operators and motodups in Kampot haven't settled on a standard foreigner's price for a moto to the border yet. Current prices vary from $5-$15 for a motodup and $10-$25 for a tuk tuk.The Phnom Den/Tinh Bien border crossing near Chau Doc Vietnam is an alternative border crossing with Vietnam accessible from Kampot. It is not a regular taxi route but taxis to the crossing can be hired for about $21-$25 for the whole car. 2-3 hours. Contact your guesthouse to arrange a taxi..
For more on international border crossings see the Overland page.
GETTING AROUND KAMPOTThe town is small and motodups are common. Foreigner price for motodup: 1000-1500R across town. Motorcycle rental: 100cc ($3-$5/day) and 250cc ($5-$7/day). There are a couple of motorcycle shops just off the traffic circle in the center of town. Cheang Try Rental (012-974698) is very helpful. All hotels and guesthouses can help you arrange motorcycle rental, motodups, cars and taxis.
KAMPOT ACCOMMODATIONSBlissful Guesthouse
Range: $3 - $6
BRF Friendly, inexpensive, clean, western managed guesthouse/ restaurant. Most rooms with attached bath, some with TV. Quiet area. Receiving lots of good reviews. Some books, postcards, souvenirs and traveler’s sundries. Tours to Bokor, Kep, etc. Bicycle rental. Information on volunteer opportunities in the Kampot area. Tel: 012-513024
E-mail: blissfulguesthouse@yahoo.com
Bokor Mountain Lodge
Range: $15 - $36
FRF Lovely old French Colonial-era building in a perfect sunset location on the riverfront road. Newly refurbished air-conditioned rooms with en-suite bathroom. Some rooms with a river view. Picturesque breakfast balcony and a popular restaurant and bar on the ground floor.Tel: 033-932314E-mail: bokorlodge@gmail.com Website: http://www.bokorlodge.com/
Boray Bokor 1 Hotel
Range: $15 - $40
FRF Popular with business and NGO visitors. Newly refurbished a/c rooms with cable TV, mini-bar, en suite bathroom with hot water. Conference room. Generator for guaranteed 24 hour electricity.Tel: 012-978168
Coco House
Range: $15
BRF Breakfast included in price. Basic, air-conditioned rooms above the Coco House Restaurant on the riverfront road. Tel: 033-932198, 012-973727 E-mail: info@cocohouse.biz Website: http://www.cocohouse.biz/
Hang Guesthouse
Range: $5-$10
BRF Riverside restaurant, pretty rooms in a beautiful garden with mango and coconut trees, lots of flowers. and a nice view of the river, mountains and the rice fields. 2 minutes outside town. Internet facilities. Free bicycle use. Free transportation into the city. Tour services. French, English and Khmer spoken. Tel: 016-389170, 033-932170E-mail: totoro@swing.be
Website: http://www.hang.esmartweb.com/
Kampot Guesthouse
Range: $3 - $15
BRF Villa-style guesthouse. Clean, en suite bathrooms. Reasonably priced restaurant. Tours to Bokor and other Kampot destinations. Bicycles. Located on a quiet street. Tel: 012-512931, 012-878279
Kampot Riverview Guesthouse
Range: $4 - $7
BRF Located at the river’s edge. Fan rooms with cable TV and en suite bathroom. Riverside veranda restaurant with a nice sunset view of the mountains. Serving reasonably priced western and Khmer dishes. Tel: 012-821570, 011-717818 E-mail: kampotriverview@yahoo.com
Little Garden Bar
Range: $10 - $30
B/FRF Rooms $10; apartments $25. Villa-style guesthouse with view overlooking the river and Bokor Mountain. Six clean a/c or fan rooms with attached bathroom ($10-$18). One authentic serviced riverfront shophouse ($25). One a/c colonial riverfront apartment ($30). Restaurant, private rooftop terrace. Information on various volunteer projects around Kampot..Tel: 012-256901 E-mail: normlgb@gmail.com
Website: http://www.littlegardenbar.com/
Long Villa Range
Range: $3 - $10
BRF Unique wooden ‘long villa.’ Fan and a/c rooms with attached bathroom. Dormitory beds available. Restaurant with seafood dishes, Cambodian and western food, and pizza. Reasonably priced. Pool table. Information. Lots of tour services and guides. Near the market.
Tel: 012-908619
E-mail: longvillaguesthouse@yahoo.com
Orchid Guesthouse
Range: $4 - $15
B/FRF Fan and a/c rooms and bungalows. Cable TV and hot water. Khmer decor. Intl/Khmer restaurant. Lots of seafood. Full bar. Motorcycles, bicycles, boat for rent. Quiet area. Secure parking. Contact for Wild Orchid Tours offering trips to Bokor, Kep, jungle treks, and lots more.
Tel: 033-932634
E-mail: orchidguesthouse@yahoo.com
Mealy Chenda Guesthouse
Range: $2 - $5
BRF New location in the center of town. Fan rooms, some with cable TV. Restaurant and bar. Inexpensive tours and transportation. Bokor tour for $6. Tel: 012-831559
Rikitikitavi
Range: $25 - $35
FRF Charming new little western-managed guesthouse on the river road in town. Well-appointed, stylishly finished air-conditioned rooms with all amenities including cable TV, spring mattresses and high-pressure showers. Excellent rooftop restaurant and bar with a brilliant view overlooking the river. VisaTel: 012-235102, 012-274820 E-mail: Rikitikitavi@asia.com
Website: http://www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com/
Ta Eng Guesthouse
Range: $3 - $6
BRF Long established Kampot guesthouse with a loyal following. Fourteen fan rooms with cable TV and en suite bathroom. Quiet street. All tourist services. Small restaurant.
Tel: 012-330058
KAMPOT RESTAURANTSKampot has a limited but growing selection of restaurants and bars. Like most southern towns, the emphasis at the Cambodian restaurants is on fresh seafood. There are also a few foreigner-oriented restaurants and bars serving western and international fare, most located along the picturesque river road opposite the riverfront park. Come evening, the riverfront is quite popular, offering a tranquil park setting and an idyllic sunset view overlooking the water and mountains. Popular with the locals, after dark fruit shake and dessert stands set up on the old bridge road between the old bridge and the traffic circle. The town shuts down fairly early, with most places closing by midnight. Blissful Guesthouse Large selection of good, inexpensive western and local dishes. Great breakfasts. Full bar open into the evening. Happy hour 4PM-8PM. Comfortable atmosphere. Popular place. Lots of travel and local information available. Guesthouse, souvenirs, books. Open early till late. 012-513024
Boddhi Villa Riverside restaurant, bar, lounge, accommodation with a laid back chill out atmosphere and budget priced drinks, food and digs. Located in a quiet garden area on the west side the river just off the road to the Tekchhou rapids.
Bokor Mountain Lodge Lovely old French Colonial-era building in a perfect sunset location on the riverfront road. Serving a variety of Khmer and some western dishes. Italian, Thai, burgers, specializing in fresh crab dishes. Weekend BBQs. Pizzas. Full bar with cold beer, wine and cocktails. Full coffee facilities. Indoor and wonderful curbside seating overlooking the river. Western managed. 7:00AM-LateTel: 033-932314
Bonkors Pub A traditional English pub on the riverfront road set amongst a cluster of little cafés and bars. The only air-conditioned pub on the riverfront, or in Kampot for that matter. Good place to escape the heat and have a drink after a hard day of touring. Full bar, wine selection by the bottle and glass, cocktails and generously poured drinks. Fresh, homemade cheesecake, ice cream and other desserts. Good coffee, espresso and cappuccino Tel: 011-598176
Coco House The spacious corner curbside seating at this riverfront restaurant and bar offers a great sunset view of the river and mountains. Large selection of reasonably priced western and some Asian dishes. Soups, salads, lots of sandwiches and pastas. Full bar with a selection of several different imported wines. Tel: 012-973727
Epic Arts Café “A project providing opportunities to the deaf and disabled communities.” Teas, cakes, fruit shakes, lunch and snacks. Cakes to order. Tel: 011-376968Website: http://www.epicarts.org.uk/
Jasmine Popular, stylish, welcoming riverfront cafe serving a good selection of western and some Asian dishes. Indoor and curbside seating with a very nice river view. Great place to enjoy sunsert over a glass of wine and have a good, reasonably price western meal. Lots of books and magazines. Wifi wireless available. Tel: 012-927313E-mail: jasmine011982@yahoo.com
Little Garden Bar Well-established, popular, western managed restaurant/bar on the riverfront. Open air garden seating with a river breeze and a sunset view. Good selection of western and Khmer food. Lots of sandwiches and daily specials on the board. Information on the Kampot area and local volunteer opportunities. Open 7:00AM-10:00PM
Tel: 012-256901
Lucki Food Restaurant and Bar Indian and Sri Lankan dishes. Lots of seafood dishes. Imported lamb (Australian) and chicken (Singaporean). Full bar, cold beer, shots for a dollar. Free drink or snack with each dish. Popular “unique breakfasts.” The sweet breakfast rotti with dates is excellent. The ‘Chicken Paaland’ is also popular. Box breakfasts and lunches. No MSG. Very clean kitchen, ice made at the restaurant. Very reasonable prices. Sri Lankan chef. Open 7AM-Late.Tel: 012-806105
Rheaj’s Burger House Friendly riverfront restaurant serving a variety of western and Khmer dishes at very reasonable prices. Western breakfasts, burgers, BBQ, seafood, pizzas, desserts, fruit juices and shakes. Beer, wine and some spirits. Indoor and curbside seating with a great view of the river and mountains. Open 7AM - 10PMTel: 033-932122, 012-333361
Rikitikitavi Charming rooftop balcony restaurant and bar with a spectacular view overlooking the river and mountains. A great place to enjoy sunset. Offering a wide selection of western and international dishes prepared by a professional chef. Very generous portions. Full bar with cocktails, cold beer, a selection of wines and of fine spirits including a nice collection of whiskeys and single-malts.Tel: 012-235102, 012-274820Website: http://www.rikitikitavi-kampot.com/
Rusty Keyhole Proper western-style bar on the riverfront. Very friendly, western managed. Western and Asian food. Daily specials. Ice cream and sweets. Good value, good cooking. Reasonable prices. English Premier League. Indoor and curbside seating. Sunset happy hour and view. Lots of dirt bike travel info. 8:30AM-Midnight.
Tel: 012-679607
Books and InformationBlissful Guesthouse and Kepler’s Kampot Books both carry selections of used and new novels and Cambodia related titles for buy/sell/trade. Most of the guesthouses and tour operators have lots of local tour and travel information available. Little Garden Bar, Blissful Guesthouse and the new Kampot Dar-laing newsletter all are particularly good sources of information on local charitable and volunteer projects. The Kampot Dar-laing also lists current events and event schedules. If you are into motorcycling Cambodia, have a chat with Kristian at Rusty Keyhole for the latest. For the history of Kampot, pick up a copy of Robert Philpotts’ The Coast of Cambodia (Blackwater Books, 2000)
KAMPOT BANKINGThe Canadia Bank accepts Visa card, and offers exchange services and MoneyGram cash transfer. Acleda Bank offers Western Union services. The nearest ATM is in Sihanouk Ville. Moneychangers and goldsellers are located on the streets that surround the market.
Canadia Bank Plc.Full range of banking services, including MoneyGram, Traveler Cheque & Foreign ExchangeN0.33, Angkor Street, Kampong Bay, KampotTel: +(855) (0)33-932 392
Fax: +(855) (0)33+932 391Telex: CANADIA KA36188, SWIFT Code: CADI KH PPE-mail: canadia.kp@canadiabank.com.kh Web-site: http://www.canadiabank.com/
KAMPOT COMMUNICATIONSInternet: There are several internet places around town, including a couple of shops on the bridge road between the bridge and the traffic circle. Post Office: Located on the river road. Stamps in stock. Reliable service. EMS parcel service. Phone/Fax: There are a couple of phone shops on Rte #3 near the market. The Internet shops also offer international phone/fax, sometimes inexpensive internet phone.
Things to Do and See Around Kampot and KepBokor Hill Station on Phnom Bokor and Kep Beach are perhaps the most popular day tour destinations out of Kampot with tour operators offering very competitively price tours. The area also offers several other attractions including pre-Angkorian ruins and caves, jungle trekking, bicycling tours, river cruises, island trips, isolated beaches, pepper plantations and some beautiful rural countryside. The most common and cheapest way to tour (aside from driving yourself) is by motodup/‘local guide’: $6-$10/day depending on the destination, time of year, linguistic abilities of the driver, etc. There are a few local tour operators in town including Sok Lim Tours (012-796919, http://www.soklimtours.com/ ) and Wild Orchid Tours and virtually every guesthouse and hotel in town can arrange boat trips, island trips, Bokor tours, Kep tours, countryside tours, etc. Blissful, Mealy Chenda, Orchid Guesthouse Long Villa, Little Garden Bar and Kampot Guesthouse always have guides and drivers at the ready. Shop around for the best price and for exact type of tour you would like to take. In Kep, Champey Inn, The Beach House, Veranda GH and Vanna Bungalows all arrange jungle treks, boat trips to Rabbit Island, etc. .
Bokor Hill Station Tours to Bokor are perhaps the most popular out of Kampot. The Bokor Hill Station on Phnom Bokor (Bokor Mountain) is a mountaintop collection of buildings (hotel, casino, church, royal residence, etc.), constructed by French authorities in the early 1920s as a complement to the already popular Kep resort area. In the 1990s a travel author referred to Bokor as ‘the eeriest place in the world’, and it lives up to that reputation. In its time, Bokor was an elegant getaway for French officials and foreign visitors to old Indochina - a classic colonial ‘hill station’ located in the mountains to allow foreigner visitors accustomed to more temperate climes to escape the tropical heat. But years of neglect have left ghostly ruins - vestiges of a different age, often shrouded in fog and clouds. One thing that the years have not changed is the absolutely spectacular view of the coast and the cool (sometimes cold) mountain air. Bokor Mountain is heavily jungled and trip beyond Bokor, including jungle trekking, can be arranged. Wild elephants and other jungle animal are occasionally seen. The is a small guesthouse near the hill station with $5 rooms, good toilets and very few other services. If you are going to overnight on Bokor, take food as the guesthouse has little to offer. 37km from Kampot. Take Route #3 west from Kampot to the well-marked turnoff. $5 entrance fee at the ranger station about a kilometer up the road. Badly broken pavement all the way up the mountain. Easiest in a 4WD. For experienced riders, it’s a moderate dirt bike ride. It is painful but possible on a small 100cc bike. It can get cold on the mountain, especially at night. Bring warm clothes.
The cave at Phnom Sasear, also known as the ‘White Elephant Cave.’ Located next to an colorful pagoda. The stairs up the side of the outcropping provide a beautiful view of the countryside, especially during the wet season. The cave contains a shrine at the base of a limestone formation alleged to resemble a white elephant.
Kampong Trach: Kampong Trach is the district that borders Vietnam. The road trip from Kampot to the main town passes though some picturesque rural areas. There is a new side road to Kampong Trach town that skirts the base of Phnom Voar, (where the victims of the 1994 Khmer Rouge kidnappings were held.) These mountain areas of Kampong Trach were one of the last Khmer Rouge holdouts. Kampong Trach town is small and relatively uninteresting. The area’s main attraction is a series of limestone caves and tubes that have been carved into a nearby mountain. The roof of a large cave in the center of a mountain has collapsed, making a small, enclosed jungle. Pagodas and shrines have been built amongst the caves, providing for some excellent photo possibilities. Bring a flashlight and wear good walking shoes. From Kampot, take the Kep road, bear left at the White Horse Monument and follow to Kampong Trach. After a few kilometers the road changes to badly broken pavement. The side road mentioned above requires a left turn onto a graded dirt road about 7 km past the White Horse Monument. It is not a straightforward route and it may be better if you go with a guide. Set aside the better part of a day for the trip to the caves and back.Kep Beach A single, kilometer long crescent of sand near the tip of the Kep peninsula. Dining platforms and seafood vendors line the road behind the beach. Busy on weekends but often deserted during the week. The road through Kep traces the coastline to the beach and then circles back on itself. Cars and vans must pay admission to drive the loop (2500R-5000R). Motorcycles and pedestrians are free. Be aware that the loop is an one way street and the police do occasionally enforce the law, levying fines against violators.Massage The well-known NGO-based Seeing Hands 5 Massage has just opened a branch in Kampot. Shiatsu massage by seeing-impaired Cambodian masseurs and masseuses. On the riverfront road. Tel: 012-503012 Rabbit Island (Koh Tunsay) An easily visited island near Kep - about 20-40 minutes from Kep by local boat. White sand beaches and coconut trees. Relatively clear water. Snorkel around the rocks. No coral but lots of fish. There are now some very basic guesthouse facilities on the island. Arrange a boat trip through your guesthouse in Kampot or Kep or just go to the Koh Tunsay Boat Dock in Kep town next to the Long Villa Restaurant. River Trips Short sunset river cruises and longer cultural/wildlife/eco trips upriver can be arranged through Sok Lim Tours or your guesthouse. Sunset river cruises are becoming more popular, running from Kampot to the rapids at Tekchhou and back.Tekcchou Resort: A picnic area on the Prek Chha river. Popular with the locals, especially on weekends. Lots of food/drink stalls. The cool rapids and river breeze are quite pleasant. 8km. Good road. Tekcchou Zoo: Asian-style mini zoo displaying a variety of local fauna. 8km north of Kampot.
